Ingredients

1 cup dried cannellini beans

1 carrot, peeled, cut into large chunks

1 celery rib, leaves removed, cut into large chunks

1 onion, peeled and quartered

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 to 1 1/2 pounds dried penne or fusilli

Freshly ground pepper

Freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Tomato Sauce:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus oil as needed

1 small onion, finely diced

Sea salt

4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

2 ounces pancetta, diced

3 cups (about 1 1/4 pounds) unpeeled plum tomatoes, chopped

3 whole dried red chiles (peperoncini) or 2 pinches hot red pepper flakes

Scant 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage

Preparation

Soak the beans in plenty of water overnight. Drain and rinse. Place the beans in a heavy pot and cover by 1 inch with cold water. Bring to a simmer; skim off any foam. Add the carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf, oil and salt. Simmer gently, adding a little water as necessary to keep the beans just covered. Cook until the beans are tender but not mushy. Let the beans cool in the cooking liquid. You may use the beans right away, but the texture and flavor improve if they rest overnight in the refrigerator.

Tomato Sauce: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant. Add the pancetta and cook 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes, chiles or hot pepper flakes, the parsley and sage. Cook, stirring, over moderately high heat until the tomatoes soften and make a sauce and the flavors are well blended, about 20 minutes. Add a little water as needed to keep the sauce from sticking. Taste. Add a little olive oil if needed to round out the flavor. Remove the whole chiles, if used.

Drain the beans, then add to the tomato sauce. Bring to a simmer, adjust the seasoning, and keep warm.

Cook the pasta in an abundant amount of lightly salted water. Drain. Toss with the sauce and several grinds of pepper. Serve on warm plates. Pass the cheese at the table.

PER SERVING: 560 calories, 21 g protein, 90 g carbohydrate, 13 g fat (3 g saturated), 7 mg cholesterol, 477 mg sodium, 8 g fiber.