Ingredients

2 ounces boneless pork loin, cut into 1/4-inch slices, then into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons tamarind concentrate

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce

4 tablespoons peanut or safflower oil

2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced

2 to 3 ounces pressed tofu, cut into 1/4-inch slices, then into 1 1/2-inch pieces

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

Coarse salt

8 ounces dried rice stick noodles

8 ounces bean sprouts, rinsed and drained (about 4 cups)

3 scallions, trimmed, flattened with the side of cleaver, and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon dried shrimp, chopped

1 tablespoon salted radish (optional)

1 cup dry-roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves

Condiments, such as cayenne pepper, sugar, thinly sliced English cucumber, lettuce leaves, lime wedges and Thai Chile-Vinegar Sauce, for serving

Preparation

Toss pork with sugar in a small bowl to mix. Combine tamarind concentrate, soy sauce, and fish sauce in another small bowl.

Preheat a 14-inch carbon-steel wok over medium-high heat until very hot. Add 2 tablespoons oil and swirl to coat sides and bottom. Cook garlic, turning over with a wooden spoon until golden, about 15 seconds.

Add pork, spreading into a single layer and cook until golden on all sides, about 1 minute. Add tofu and sear, pressing it against the sides of the wok, 10 to 20 seconds. Remove to a plate; set aside.

Season eggs with salt and pour into wok. Cook until the eggs start to set, about 1 minute. Using a spatula, cut into large pieces, and transfer to a shallow bowl or plate.

While meat rests, reheat wok over medium-high heat until sizzling-hot. Add 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to coat sides and bottom. Cook noodles, tossing and turning often and pressing against the sides of the wok to sear, until softened, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Push noodles up sides of wok and add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to bottom of wok and 2 to 2 1/2 cups bean sprouts and the scallions. Cook, tossing and turning, until wilted, about 20 seconds. Add dried shrimp and toss briefly with spatula. Add soy-sauce mixture. Cook, tossing and turning, about 30 seconds. Incorporate noodles. Transfer pork mixture to wok along with 1/2 cup peanuts and egg; toss gently to combine.

Divide among bowls and sprinkle with cilantro to serve. Remaining bean sprouts, additional peanuts, and other condiments should be served on the side.